Simon Griffiths heads to Kemer in Turkey for a 3-day swimming holiday exploring the Lycian coast

Floating in the warm waters off Kemer, with limestone cliffs towering over me and the Taurus Mountains in the distance, I realised this was no ordinary swimming holiday.

Turkey is a popular swimming holiday destination. It’s easy to see why. The water is clear and warm. Food and accommodation are cheaper than some other Mediterranean destinations. It’s relatively easy to reach from the UK with budget flights to regional airports close to the coast. And there’s plenty to see and do in addition to swimming.

Several of the international swimming holiday companies organise trips to the stretch of coastline referred to variously as the Turquoise Coast and the Turkish Riviera. But our trip was with AquaRally, a local swim trip organiser, which added a layer of adventure as well as generous Turkish hospitality.

Coastal welcome

Our first swim was from Kemer to Kiriş, a distance of around 4km. We met our fellow swimmers near the marina in Kemer, posed for group pictures and started getting to know each other. From here, we headed across a bay and around a headland of vertical limestone cliffs topped with woodland. Behind that loom the mighty Taurus Mountains. It’s quite a backdrop.

The pace was relaxed, with plenty of time to enjoy the sights, take pictures and pause to chat. However, apart from Turgut, the company owner and lead guide, I was the only English speaker. But we managed. We all understood swimming and the universal joy it brings. Later, back on land, we made good use of Google translate.

Kemer is a resort town with a full range of international restaurants, but AquaRally have their own local favourites, which we wouldn’t have found on our own. We spent much of the afternoon eating local food and drinking Turkish çay (chai). Then, for something different, we spent two hours hiking up to the viewpoint on the same headland we’d swum around earlier.

Phaselis

Day two was my favourite swim, around the headland at Phaselis. This was a Roman-era port city, with sheltered bays either side of the headland. It’s only around 250m to walk across the headland and through the ruins, but we swam around, which was about a mile. Here, the golden cliffs stood out in contrast to the dark storm clouds looming over the Taurus Mountains. Some of us swam there and back but there was the option to walk back too. We then had time to explore the ruins. Although it was only a short swim, it was fun to combine swimming with sight-seeing.

Later, our fellow swimmers took us out to sample çiğ köfte. This traditional dish used to be made with raw beef or lamb, but this was banned in 2008 because of health concerns. It is now frequently served as a vegan meal made from bulgar wheat and spices. I thought it was delicious and I’m craving some now as I write.

Olympus

Day 3 took us to another ancient town, that of Olympus, which was captured by the Romans in 78BC (Julius Caeser is said to have been part of the conquering army). I learned too that while the most famous Mount Olympus is in Greece, a number of mountains share that title. Also nearby, although we didn’t have time to visit, are the eternal fires at Yanartaş, which will be on my list if I come back here.

This time we swam directly parallel to the beach for 3km until we reached the entrance to the ruins. After a snack to refuel, we spent an hour exploring, before swimming into a cave and then reversing our earlier swim back along the beach. This was our longest swimming day, and I enjoyed the opportunity to finish off with a straight 3k swim.

Sadly, our swimming trip was only for a long-weekend, but AquaRally also offer longer trips, including live-aboard options.

Authentic Turkish experience

Taking a trip with a local operator such as AquaRally perhaps gives you a more immersive Turkish experience. All the other swimmers were Turkish. But while we could barely communicate, they couldn’t have been more welcoming and friendly. We had an extra day after the swims and our new friends took us into the mountains where we enjoyed gözleme (a stuffed turnover) in an amazing local restaurant in a tree house. We then went to Antalya to explore the old town.

On the other hand, you will need to organise more for yourself than you might do with an international operator. There will possibly be occasions when you have no clue what is going on. It happened to us a couple of times, but we allowed ourselves to be swept along. All we really needed to know was that it involved swimming and there was food at the end. And there was plenty of both.

And isn’t it also amazing how you bond over swimming and food, even if you don’t share a language?

Other trips with AquaRally

I did “AquaRally Antalya 1”, a three-day trip exploring parts of the Lycian coast. Other trips on the AquaRally calendar this year include:

• 16 July: AquaRally Foça 1 – 25km over 5 days
• 1 August: AquaRally Assos – 13.9km over 3 days
• 16 August: AquaRally Ayvalik – 8.5km over 2 days
• 5 September: AquaRally Bozcaada – 6km over 3 days
• 10 September: AquaRally Foça 2 – 25km over 5 days
• 25 September: AquaRally Montenegro – 8km over 4 days
• 9 October: AquaRally Bozburun (Liveaboard) – 9km over 4 days
• 18 October: AquaRally Lycian Way 2 – 4k over 2 days
• 24 October: AquaRally Antalya 2 – 10.7km over 3 days (this is a repeat of the trip I did)

For international swimmers, trips generally include hotel accommodation with breakfast and daily transportation to and from the swims. Meals are typically extra. Local swimmers often make their own accommodation arrangements.

Turgut Esen – Aquarally founder

Turgut (above right) started swimming in 1973. Until 1984, he trained up to 10 kilometres per day with double daily sessions. He has participated in the Çanakkale and Istanbul Strait races for about 30 years and is a three-time overall classification winner in Çanakkale (Dardanelles/Hellespont), where he also holds the course record at 39 minutes. He has won his age group five times in the Istanbul Strait. In 2015, he won a medal in the 3km open water race at the Kazan World Masters Swimming Championship. Additionally, he is the president of Marathon Masters Sports Club, which has 90 Master swimmers.

As the founder of AquaRally, he organises swimming events at 14 different locations along the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts in Turkey, as well as in Montenegro.

Find out more about AquaRally at aquarally.org/en

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Every swimmer loves a hotel with a pool, but Fritton Lake offers so much more for open water enthusiasts, Ella Foote discovers more

Shortly after arriving at Fritton Lake on the Norfolk-Suffolk border in East Anglia I discovered it was possible to swim between the counties by simply swimming across the width of the lake – an appealing goal for a weekend waterside.

Fritton Lake is a private members club and holiday resort that is popular with those who love the outdoors with a dose of comfort. The estate is home to a 1,000- acre rewilding project which puts nature at the forefront of everything the team does, including protecting and restoring the land and reconnecting people to wildlife. You can stay in a range of accommodation, which includes boutique style hotel rooms at the Clubhouse, stylish cabins in the woods or a self-catered cottage all within walking distance to the estate facilities.

As well as many leisure highlights on offer at Fritton, you are also a short distance from the coast for further swimming opportunities and adventures. However, there isn’t much need to leave the estate at all with an outdoor heated swimming pool, floating sauna, bio-gym, swimming lake and various other outdoor activities. We stayed in one of the farm cottages, which offered self-catering style accommodation. Perched on the edge of the land, it gave us a peep at the lake and an abundance of wildlife on our doorstep.

Our long weekend started with a swim in the heated pool, which washed away our car journey and anchored us into the pace of life at Fritton. We cooked in our cottage and had everything we needed to make a family meal before snuggling into super-comfy beds ready for a few days of activity and adventure.

If you are a morning person and like to rise with the birds, this is the place to do it. Birdsong fills the air each day and we witnessed barn owls hunting in the grassland outside our bedroom windows in the mornings. The lake is open in daylight hours for casual plunges or longer swims. You can join group lifeguarded and coached sessions if you want some extra support or advice. Swimming Coach Nicola Butler hosts swimming sessions in the lake, pool and in the sea in nearby Lowestoft, offering both group and 1-2-1 guidance if you want to polish up your skills while on holiday. We spent much of our time switching between lake swims and the pool.

If you like to be on the water as well as in it, there are also numerous ways to spend time with paddleboards, row boats and walking routes around the lake. While you can easily spend time across the estate doing your own thing, there are also activities and excursions you can book onto, popular with families, such as shelter building, foraging and Jeep Safari. If you like your rest while away, I can recommend you book into the treatment rooms for a variety of therapies – the hot stone massage was wonderful.

We made full use of our private garden and barbecue at our farm cottage but also enjoyed breakfast, lunch and an evening meal at the clubhouse while we stayed. The food offered is locally produced either from the estate or sourced from nearby locations. The Sunday roast is popular with the locals, but we loved the breakfast and bar meals at lunch. Kids are welcomed and celebrated at Fritton with plenty on offer for them, our kid didn’t want to leave the pool and devoured multiple burgers over the weekend – it was a pleasure to see him enjoy himself in the safety of the estate.

They say, “once in Fritton, forever smitten” and they are not wrong. It is the perfect place for solo swim escapes, family fun or a place to catch up with swim pals. Book a wild swimming escape or a longer stay. If you’re local, you can become a member and make use of the facilities, including pool and swimming lake, too!

To book or for more information visit frittonlake.co.uk

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As saunas pop up alongside beaches, rivers and lakes across the UK, author Emma O’Kelly chooses 10 of her favourite locations from her new guide book for swimmers looking to balance cold dips with a dose of heat

Kishtey Cheh, Isle of Man

Founded by Liam Wiltshire, a surfer who discovered sauna on a trip to Ireland, Kishtey Çheh means ‘hotbox’ in Manx. It’s an appropriate name for this bijou beach sauna, perched on the sands at Port Erin. One barrel sauna was followed by another, and wood-fired hot tub and cold plunges. But the sea provides the best cold dip of all; with its gentle waves and white sands, Port Erin is one of the island’s finest beaches. A one-kilometer swim across the bay, from the harbour to a derelict Victorian tidal pool in the cliffs, takes in clean blue waters and views to Milner’s Tower on the promontory at Bradda Head. This was built in Victorian times as a place of quiet contemplation. It still is. No one stops you scrambling up its stone staircase and looking out to Northern Ireland, to the mountains of Mourne. For those in search of post-sauna beach snacks, The Cosy Nook café and Foraging Vintners offers great food and famous sparkling rhubarb wine. kishteycheh.im

Shoreline Sauna, Dorset

Despite its 1950s pastel colours, and retro look, the Shoreline Sauna is easy to miss, tucked away by the kayaks and paddle boards on the main beach at Lyme Regis. A cold bath is a fresher option than the balmy sea in summer, though the waters are mostly calm and sheltered all year round. Former customer and wild swimmer Louise Roberts loved Shoreline so much she bought it, and has now tapped into a whole new local community she never knew was there. Special sessions include full moon saunas with whisking and Lou’s homemade eucalyptus body scrubs. This September, local swim group Lyme Splash will organise a 3.15km swim from Lyme Regis to Charmouth; those who fancy swimming a few extra miles to Seatown can head on to the Seaside Sauna Haus to warm up. shorelinesauna.co.uk

Cellardyke, Fife

The Cellardyke Tidal Pool had been a jewel on Scotland’s Fife Coastal Path since the 1930s but in recent years it had fallen into decline. That was until a band of locals formed the Tidal Pool Committee and raised £100,000 to restore it. The first two phases of restoration work are now complete, with a newly renovated pool, an outdoor activity centre and a communityoriented sauna in operation. The latter is owned by Judith Dunlop, a ‘saunapreneur’ who owns Scottish Seaside Saunas and runs sister sites in Elie and St Andrews. Cellardyke has a tangible buzz; hugely popular with locals and tidal pool tourists, there’s an Airstream selling coffees and snacks and a wood-fired pizza hut, too. cellardykeseasidesauna.com

Pool Bridge Farm, Yorkshire

For years the lakes at Pool Bridge Farm were one of the best fisheries in the north of England. Today, the lakes form part of 137 acres of rewilded land outside York, and are one of the area’s best wild swimming spots. Facebook group The Pool Bridge Farm Swimmers has more than 8,000 members and, to service them, three saunas are discreetly situated around one of the site’s four lakes. One of them was a shepherd’s hut with no roof that had been on the farm since 1911. It was converted by Pool Bridge Farm co-owner Mike Fletcher into a dark, intimate space seating six. This was quickly followed by two barrel saunas. Bathers pay for an hour’s sauna session, but can stay to swim and relax by the lakes all day. There is also a six-acre campsite, ideal for tents and small campervans, while other spaces offer paddleboarding and kayaking (you need to bring your own), and lessons for those who want them, and one lake is lit for winter morning and evening swimming. Also on offer are wellness weekends, sound bath sessions, meditation, moon swims with fire pits, yoga, breath work, ladies’ skinny-dipping sessions, a café open from Wednesday to Sunday – and even a choir. poolbridge.co.uk

Saltbox, Outer Hebrides

Travelling between Lewis, Harris and Uig, Saltbox is the only wood-fired sauna in the Outer Hebrides. It’s the brainchild of Norma MacLeod, an STA Open Water Coach and excompetitive swimmer based in Stornoway. In 2019 Norma co-founded Immerse Hebrides, which runs retreats and swim tours and boat trips around the islands. She knows all the beauty spots, and servicing them with a mobile sauna was a natural next step. What she has created is the very definition of a wild sauna – often there are no toilets or running water – but that doesn’t stop bathers who like their nature raw. Saltbox is touching down permanently on North Uist and is sure to pop up on other islands soon. saltboxsauna.co.uk

Watershed, Moray

Elle Adams and Rupert Hutchinson were sitting in their freezing flat in Findhorn early in 2022 trying to work out a “Scottish winter survival strategy”. They saw a horsebox advertised on Gumtree and bought it – impulsively and in the dark. They parked it in a friend’s garden and, with his help, converted it into a sauna. Elle charted their progress online and her friends started asking if they could get warm, too, when it was finished. In 2022, Watershed Sauna opened above the eight-mile long East Findhorn Beach. What started as the couple’s side hustle has turned into a landmark project, and an inspiration for many younger sauna operators. Made from recycled local wood, and painted black, it stands strikingly among grasses, gorse, sand and sea. Firewood is locally sourced, the granite stones for the stove were collected from the banks of the River Findhorn and only locally produced pine or juniper berries are used in essential oils. When you book a session at Watershed you can buy a seat for someone in need and the Winter Wellness Program provides subsidised spots for local residents. A fun addition is ‘sauna bingo’ where bathers can spot nine different sights and species – among them a basking shark, a dolphin and an osprey. Every completed bingo card wins two free seats. watershedsauna.com

Soulwater, Edinburgh

In 2022, Kirsty Carver opened her horsebox sauna, Soulwater, on Edinburgh’s Portobello Beach. Such is its popularity that a second, bigger, Soulwater wild spa followed in Granton this year. Here, two saunas hold 24 people while cold plunges made from beer fermentation cylinders ensure this wild spa feels wild. It’s easy to take a plunge into the sea, and enjoy windswept views of the Firth of Forth and post-industrial landscapes. There’s a Sunday Sauna Club and a range of events from ADHD support sessions to aufguss and full moon saunas. Next to the Granton site is The Pitt, a not-for-profit community outfit encompassing a food market, coffee shops, bars and a music and events space. soulwatersauna.com

Hot Haus, Guernsey

Since 1865, the La Vallette bathing pools in St Peter Port have provided safe, free sea swimming to everyone on the island of Guernsey, including eminent visitors such as the writer Victor Hugo and painter Pierre Auguste Renoir. After years of neglect, in 2019, the pools were renovated with new toilets, a cafe and award-winning design. Now they’re enjoyed by the thousands of wild swimmers who also congregate on Guernsey’s 22 swimming beaches. Among these is Kirstie Allen, founder of Hot Haus sauna. A former health and fitness consultant, Kirstie got into cold water swimming when she moved to Guernsey. Granted a sevenyear lease, she runs Hot Haus from a grassy verge opposite the La Vallette pools. Views stretch to the tiny islands of Sark, Herm and (on a good day) Jersey. hothaus.gg

‘Wild Sauna: the best outdoor saunas in Britain’ is out now (£18.99). Readers can receive 20% off and free P&P with code OS20 at wildthingspublishing.com

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Simon Griffiths shares how to make the most of your next swim abroad

Taking part in a swimming event in a foreign country is exciting but challenging. The right preparation and planning will help you make the most of the experience.

Start by imagining yourself on the start line. The sense of excitement is the same. The smells of neoprene and wetsuit lubricant are familiar. And the hum of nervous chatter is similar.

But everything is different too. When you listen closely, you realise you don’t understand what people around you are saying. There are fewer, if any, faces in the crowd that you recognise (although you keep thinking you should). The swimmers’ wetsuits don’t match the brands and styles you usually see back home. The briefing is incomprehensible. If you usually swim in the UK, it’s probably warmer than you’re used to. It may feel a little disorganised – but that could be because you don’t know what is going on.

I love racing in other countries. Taking part in a local swim is a step up from a regular tourist visit. Your otherness as a foreigner is compensated for by the shared identity of being a swimmer. The thrill of racing is supercharged by the adventure and unfamiliarity of travel. The satisfaction of completing a swim is doubled because you’ve also had to overcome the not insignificant challenge of getting to the start line.

Getting there

The first hurdle is finding a suitable event and entering. We list some international events in Outdoor Swimmer but there are hundreds more. You’ll need to do your research. You may have to navigate a foreign language website and make a payment in a different currency. Not always straightforward, but it’s part of the adventure. Google translate can help but it isn’t perfect. I recommend emailing the event organiser. They will usually be delighted to help.

Swim events are often in beautiful locations. If you can spare the time, it’s worth factoring in a couple of days either side of your swim to acclimatise, recover from jetlag and explore – it’s also good to have a margin in case your travel is disrupted.

However, try not to do too much the day before your swim. I once spent eight hours walking around Budapest in the rain before a triathlon. It was interesting and I saw a lot of the city, but I didn’t race well afterwards.

Other practicalities

Check if there are any special requirements. In France, I was asked to prove membership of either Swim England or British Triathlon in order to race. Failing that, I would have needed a note from a doctor saying I was fit to swim. In Italy, I had to return a medical form. But not everywhere is so strict.

Review your travel insurance and ensure it covers you for open water swimming events. And check again even if it did in the past. The standard travel insurance I get with my bank account no longer covers swimming events. While the risk of something going wrong in a swim is low, the costs could be significant.

Then, pay attention to the event rules. If tow floats are compulsory, do you need to bring your own? Does your costume or wetsuit need to carry a QR code showing it’s approved by World Aquatics?

For longer swims, bring your own nutrition. While gels and other energy products might be provided, you shouldn’t rely on these. Unfamiliar brands may play havoc with your stomach. And do you need to plan ahead for your pre-swim breakfast? If you’re staying in a hotel, you may find they don’t serve breakfast early enough for your swim start. Bringing a bag of oats may seem odd, but I’ve done it many times – and it’s a lifesaver for early swim starts.

Swim prep

It’s always useful to familiarise yourself with the course before a swim. It’s even more important in an unknown environment. Bear in mind you may not be able to understand the volunteers and safety crew – asking for directions may not help. I look out for people who might be swimmers (they’re usually easy to spot) and ask for local tips.

Similarly, if you don’t understand the race briefing, just ask another participant. It normally doesn’t take long to find someone who speaks enough English to summarise for you. If you still have doubts, let the race organiser know.

Dealing with the unknown

My most painful jellyfish sting came from an event in Italy. Swimming in the Atlantic near Madeira made me worry about sharks. Going anywhere new introduces you to hazards you don’t find at home. My take on it is, if local people are happy to swim, why shouldn’t I be? Although I do appreciate that people have different risk tolerances.

Make a point of finding out what the local hazards are and take suitable precautions. Do you, for example, need to be careful where you put your feet to avoid sea urchins? Should you shuffle walk into the sea in case there are stingrays? Also, don’t forget to protect yourself from the sun.

Feel the fear

Taking on a race in another country is daunting. Not only do you have to do the swim, which may already be challenging, but you have to deal with a new culture, a strange language, and the stress of travel. On the plus side, you will be warmly welcomed as a fellow swimmer, enjoy a unique travel experience and, hopefully, have a wonderful time.

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Simon Griffiths swam 12km down the River Shannon with Gaelforce Events

The River Shannon owns the record for the longest river in the British Isles. Apparently, this is a useful piece of trivia for pub quizzes, but it wasn’t something I knew before I took part in the Gaelforce Great River Swim. It always surprises me what I learn from swimming.

The river is often referred to as “mighty” and I can well imagine it’s a force to be reckoned with when in spate. It drains around a fifth of the total land area of Ireland. But on 17 May this year, it was more majestic than mighty, its power hidden beneath a serene and soothing surface.

Gaelforce Events has run swimming events in the Shannon since 2023 but this was the first year they extended to the 12km distance. Around 85 of us signed up. We were in for a treat.

We entered the water in the village of Tarmonbarry, just downstream from Tarmonbarry Lock. It’s a picturesque spot. The river is around 100m wide, banked by reeds and surrounded by low-lying farmland. The water is a deep peaty brown colour and feels silky smooth to swim in.

The Shannon at Tarmonbarry has already passed through some 50 miles of Ireland’s heartlands. It’s mostly rural. Unlike the Thames, there are no major towns and their accompanying sewage treatment works. The water quality is excellent. One local assured me it was drinkable, although I didn’t put that to test.

Navigation was simple. Swim downstream until you hit Lough Ree, then turn left to finish. We were given the full run of the river and left to our own devices to choose the best line. I liked that. The only markers on the river were large buoys every kilometre, but these were just to help you keep track of distance not show the best line.

Fast swimming

River flow was low in 2025 as Ireland has had unusually little rain. But it was still noticeable. One of the joys of river swimming is covering the distance at faster than normal swimming speed and watching the banks glide by. The water was also unseasonably warm at around 18 degrees. If you do this swim another year, prepare yourself for cooler water and a stronger current.

The ease of navigation and the tranquil conditions made this one of the most relaxing swims I’ve done. The river meanders a little but generally heads south. It narrows and widens again, as rivers do. There are a couple of islands, too. I swam through it all in a contented flow state.

Approaching Lanesborough, you pass a decommissioned peat-burning power station. This incongruous building serves as a useful landmark. I think it was the only building I saw throughout the swim. If you have any energy left at this stage, you could try to speed up. Shortly after the power station, you swim under the N63 and Lough Ree opens up ahead of you. Arc around to your left and swim into the event village where volunteers help you out of the water. Your swim is over, but don’t rush off.

The festival

The first reason not to disappear as soon as you cross the line is that the finish area and event village are in a lovely location at the top of Lough Ree. There’s plenty of space to stretch out, relax and enjoy the view.

Stay to soak up the festival atmosphere, too. There’s a live band, local exhibitors and, importantly, food. Take a moment to get to know your fellow swimmers. What did they see that you missed, and vice versa. What other events do they recommend?

I enjoyed watching other swimmers finish. Whether they’ve done the 12km or one of the shorter swims (800m, 3.5km or 5.8km) everyone has something to celebrate. Some sprint for the finish in a tussle with a friend or maybe just someone they’ve been swimming next to. Others stop to enjoy the moment and check the views before they cross the line. It seems as if they’re reluctant to stop swimming. Some wave their arms in celebration. Others look as if they can barely lift the arms but their faces beam with pride.

Smooth operation

Overall, the Great River Swim was well organised. From bag drop off, registration and transportation to the start, everything ran smoothly and on time. The feed station at the half-way point on the 12km was well-stocked and easy to find. The team and volunteers were friendly and helpful. The festival encouraged swimmers and their friends to hang around and socialise. If you fancy a longish, early season swim in a lovely location, then add the Great River Swim to your list.

What else to do

My trip to the Great River Swim was supported by Tourism Ireland. Lanesborough, despite its stunning location at the top of Lough Ree, is not as well-known tourist destination as Ireland’s dramatic west coast. Yet it’s worth a visit and we could easily have spent more time exploring the area. In the little we had, we strolled along a pretty section of Royal Canal that connects the River Shannon to Dublin, visited the Corlea Trackway, which has the remains of an amazing Iron Age floating pathway across the peat bogs, and took in a couple of neolithic burial mounds.

We also spent an afternoon exploring part of the Wild Atlantic Way, looping around the amazing Killary Fjord, the location for one of Gaelforce’s other swims. It was a lot to pack into a weekend and our brief visit has left us wanting to go back for more.

Find out more:

Great River Swim: gaelforceevents.com/en/gaelforce-great-river-swim
Great Fjord Swim: gaelforceevents.com/en/gaelforce-great-fjord-swim
Great Lake Swim: gaelforceevents.com/en/gaelforce-great-lake-swim
Watch Simon’s interview with event organiser Mary Young:
Visit Ireland: Ireland.com

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Digital editor Abi Whyte finds an idyllic swim retreat in the Welsh Borders, just a short drive from the famous book town of Hay on Wye

There’s an instant feeling of seclusion when you arrive at Ebba, a tiny wooden cabin hidden away in the Welsh Border hills. All you can hear is the distant whistle of a red kite, the bleating of sheep and the burble of frogs in the water.

The cabin, with its floor-to-ceiling windows and Japanese timber cladding, is a striking sight reflected in the clear waters of the spring-fed lake. Across the water is a “floating” sauna, another bold vision of blackened timber and glass. 

Designed to sleep two, the cabin – though small – has been cleverly designed with space-saving storage, sleek furnishing and natural textures that are calming on the eye.  

Wherever you are in the cabin, you can’t help be arrested by the views from the glazed walls out onto the lake, waterfall and flowing stream. This is a place to feel completely embraced by the wild.

And while there’s plenty to keep you here in this little pocket of wildness, there’s more to explore in the surrounding Welsh uplands and Wye Valley, including the Offa’s Dyke National Trail and – surely number one on any book-lovers’ bucket list – Hay on Wye. 

The accommodation

Inside Ebba you’ll find a superking-size bed topped with towels and robes for your stay. There’s a pre-stacked woodburner ready to light, and a small selection of games and books to unwind with by the fire. 

The cabin has two rain showers – one in the bathroom and one outside, next to the hand-carved stone bath that comfortably fits two people.

The swimming

Aaah that lake. That crystal, spring-fed lake. Clean, clear and absolutely brimming with frogs (in spring!). You can access the lake via a ladder on the jetty, conveniently next to the sauna. 

The sauna heats up very quickly (takes just half an hour) and the view from the floor-to-ceiling window is spectacular, particularly if you’re having a twilight swim and sauna sessiom.  

There’s also a rowing boat moored to the jetty, with lifejackets provided, should you be inclined for a romantic paddle. 

If you can bear to tear yourself away from the lake, there is a gorgeous swim spot a short walk west along the river from Hay on Wye, named The Warren. It’s a designated bathing area of the Wye, with shallow stretches for paddling and deeper pools upstream for a proper swim. 

Eating

The cabin is fitted with a double gas hob and has all the utensils you need for cooking. There’s no oven, so don’t make the same mistake I made bringing a quiche to bake!

There’s also a BBQ and fire pit on the deck should you fancy an alfresco feast. 

The nearest pub is the Roast Ox Inn in Painscastle – very popular for its Sunday roast. And you’re spoilt for choice for places to eat in Hay-on-Wye with its array of independent cafes, restaurants, farm shops and bakeries. A particular favourite of mine is Chapters, which has a Michelin Green Star for its sustainable and ethical standards.

Best of the rest

This is prime walking country here in the Welsh Borders, with the Offa’s Dyke Path snaking close by. You can pick up this historic path from the neighboring village of Newchurch and walk all the way to Hay on Wye, or Kington in the opposite direction if you wish.

The cabin has laminated maps and guides to other walking routes starting from the cabin, including Bryngwyn Hill where you’ll be rewarded with views of Hay Bluff, Pen-y-fan and the Begwyns.

For something a bit different, Bryngwyn Riding Centre offers guided hacks out on the upland moors, and is suitable for all levels of horse-riding experience. 

And of course, bibliophiles simply cannot miss a visit to Hay on Wye, the word’s first book town and host to the famous literary festival every summer. Aside from the numerous book shops to mooch in, you’ll find the recently the restored Hay Castle, which is hosting a stunning exhibition celebrating Welsh artists until September. 

Our favourite thing

Reclining in the outdoor stone bath after sunset, my friend opposite, face packs on, watching the stars come out. 

With thanks to The Nant. For more information and to book your stay visit the-nant.co.uk/ebba

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Lidos are magical and we want in. Rowan Clarke chats to Jem Collins to find out how we can collect them all

Take the lid off a swimming pool, and the magic pours in. What is it about exposing that rectangle of clear, blue water to the elements that transforms it into a swimming nirvana? We spoke to Jem Collins, founder of All the Lidos, about what makes outdoor pools so special, her mission to ‘collect them all’ – and how we can join in by taking part in her British Summer Time Lido Challenge (and earn beautiful badges).

Why do you think lidos are having such a renaissance?

I feel like my experience of swimming outdoors mirrors what’s happened more broadly in the UK. I grew up in Devon, and a core part of my childhood was going to Topsham outdoor pool. Then foreign holidays became a lot more accessible, the British climate wasn’t great, and all that fell away. To think how many pools disappeared is genuinely heartbreaking.

There’s been a growing awareness of these amazing community assets that we have on our doorstep, which, especially in a busy world allow you to switch off properly. I think the pandemic gave that more visibility. When you couldn’t go away for a weekend in Spain, you found this place on your doorstep. It really opened people’s eyes to what we have here in the UK.

What is about open air pools that’s so special?

You’re in this rectangle with a walled rectangle around you, and all that’s missing is the roof. So what’s so different? For me, it’s those atmospheric changes that you’re more connected to and more aware of. You can feel the wind, or sun, or it might be raining on you, which I think is the best time to go for a swim.

I think outdoor pools also attract more of a community. They become part of a ritual, so you go to the pool and you see the same people and start to get to know them.

And then there’s such variety. That’s what makes it so fun to try and visit as many as possible. It could be an incredible view or amazing architecture; sometimes it’s just awe that it’s survived. I go to the Oasis in London quite a lot. I call it the washing machine because it’s very small and it churns when it’s full, but I’m always like ‘Wow, how is this here?’ So, whether it’s a tidal pool, a grand piece of architecture, or a community-built pool made with concrete blocks, there’s always something special.

What made you want to visit all the outdoor pools and lidos that you could?

Well, I have to give full credit to the wonderful Emma and Janet (authors of The Lido Guide). I was living in London and stumbled across London Fields. Then my partner bought me The Lido Guide, and I just needed to try and visit as many of them as possible.

There are sad stories where pools have shut down or public places have become private. But I the more I look for lidos, the more I find. My partner and I joke that we’re not making any progress because we keep finding more, and I get emails from people saying, ‘Did you know about this pool? It’s just opened up.’ It’s a bit like a treasure hunt.

It takes you to places that you probably wouldn’t have seen otherwise, especially a lot of these community pools. I’ve got to see a snapshot of each community in a place that I wouldn’t have seen. And I think sometimes we forget all the amazing places we have across the UK.

What inspired you set up your Lido Challenge?

I guess I just wanted to inspire people to go on mini adventures. I often feel that when we think about adventures; it’s a big, grand word, but I don’t want to cycle the world. You can find adventure in your everyday. And there are so many outdoor pools all across the UK that it’s really not hard to fit visiting them into your summer.

I also wanted to support the sector because so much of it is community run and led by volunteers. So going and swimming somewhere on a rainy day makes a lot of difference to their bottom line.

Equally, I think that having something to aim for pushes you to do new things. So, it’s for people to feel like they’ve had a small adventure, seen something different, met other people, and earned a badge at the end – and they’re proper embroidered badges.

We love a badge. Tell us more!

You can earn six badges this year, half of them are numbers so, for swimming in five, 10 and 20 spots. We’re always conscious that, depending on where you live in the country, you might not have the time and money to visit 20 places. So the other three are challenge badges like swimming in the rain, and a bravery badge to do something that’s out of your comfort zone.

It sounds like such an inclusive challenge.

I think swimming by its nature is very inclusive, but it’s still an overwhelmingly white space and disabled access in a lot of places isn’t great. So, a large part of this is inspiring people who wouldn’t have thought about doing a swimming ‘event’, so to speak.

I find that the perception of events is worse than the reality. So, I wanted to build something that wasn’t about racing or completing, but that was something people could build themselves. It runs through the whole of British Summer Time, March to October and it can be whatever you make it.

Find Jem’s interactive outdoor pool map and take part in the challenge: allthelidos.com

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Digital editor Abi Whyte unwinds and recharges on a spring yoga and swimming retreat on the shores of Windermere

“Whenever I first arrive here, I like to wander about the place and pretend it’s mine,” Laura Bell tells me as she shows me around Silverholme, a Georgian manor on the southwestern shore of Lake Windermere.

The house and surrounding acres of the Graithwaite estate is certainly a place to inspire fantasies of a bygone century; floating about the gardens in a silky gown, perhaps startled by a vision of Mr Darcy freshly damp from the lake. 

But enough of that. I’m here for yoga. Yoga and swimming, interwoven with meditation, nutritious food and new faces to get to know over five glorious days. The sun is shining, the bluebells are out and Lake Windermere is a calm, flat mirror reflecting the fells and cloudless sky. Can it get any better than this?

Zest Life founder and yoga instructor Laura Bell has been hosting yoga retreats in the Lake District and North Wales since 2000; weaving in a wild swimming element as she discovered her own passion for cold water over the years. 

“My vision for this retreat started in my 20s, not wanting to wake up with hangovers at the weekend and realising that yoga was a much more suitable way of life for me at the time,” Laura tells me. “I was overcoming depression and eating disorders and starting to think ‘What’s the way I want to spend my time?’ So I put all the things I love doing together – yoga, walking, good food, good people, beautiful places, nature – into a weekend and created these retreats. It was about creating an experience that allows people to feel restored and recharged once they leave. Feeling better about themselves, full of vitality.”

Laura then talks me through the daily flow of the retreat – five days of yoga and wild swimming, with ample time in the afternoons to rest or explore at our leisure. I’m giddy with excitement. This is going to be blissful.

Waking up and winding down

Laura’s yoga sessions take place twice a day in a beautiful, calming space in the estate’s converted chapel. The morning session, before breakfast, starts with a guided meditation followed by a dynamic and energizing yoga routine to set you up for the day. The evening practice, just before dinner, is a slower Yin session focusing on deep stretches and relaxation.  

While I practice yoga fairly regularly I still consider myself a beginner, but feel reassured by Laura’s clear and gentle guidance throughout the lessons. The other guests are a mixture of yoga abilities, yet Laura’s teaching manages to embrace the whole room, provide easier or more challenging alternatives to poses when needs arise. 

But what I love most about Laura’s practice is the nurturing touches she weaves in throughout, such as rubbing China Balm onto the backs of our necks while we’re in Downward-facing Dog, and massaging rose oil into our foreheads while in Shavasana. 

A swimmer’s playground

After morning yoga  and breakfast, it’s time to pack our kit for our swim adventure, whether it be just a stone’s throw away on our private beach in Windermere, or one of the many nearby lakes just a short trip in the car. 

On the first day, swim guide Makala Jones introduces us to Windermere – gently guiding first-time cold water dippers into the water while keeping a watchful eye on more experienced swimmers who aim for a buoy about 100 meters away. I swim a few lengths then dry on the beach in the sunshine, chatting to Makala about her upcoming challenges this year, including a North Channel solo, a relay swim in the English Channel and a record-breaking all-female relay swim from Ireland to Wales. She already has an English Channel solo under her belt. We’re in the right hands, it seems.

After lunch we head up to High Dam, a beautifully peaty lake with an island to aim for in the middle, and woodland trails to explore once you’re dry. 

On the second and third day we swim in Loughrigg Tarn (above) and Grasmere, both a short and scenic drive from Silverholme, and Laura ensures we have enough time to stop by Hawkshead on the way back for locally made ice cream and gingerbread. 

The afternoons back at Silverholme are free for us to do as we please. A massage therapist is on hand should guests fancy a treatment, or the Lakeside Spa Hotel is a five-minute drive down the road and is free for Silverholme guests to use its spa facilities.

I vary my afternoons up between going for lakeside runs, paddleboarding (I have my own board) on Windermere or lazing in the garden with the resident peacock, tucking into cake and fresh juice made by the retreat’s private chef Kelly Mason.

Food of the gods

“I want to take Kelly home with me.” This is a phrase I hear uttered by guests multiple times during our stay. I even catch myself thinking it while polishing off her orange almond cake, which astounds the palate with bursts of citrusy coriander seed on top.

Kelly’s imaginative dishes throughout our stay are all the colours and flavours, yet all plant-based, seasonal and utterly good for you. I watch Kelly pack away her collection of herbs and spices after dinner.  

“In my style of cuisine, the vegetable or main fruit of each dish is always the main attraction!” Kelly tells me. “I love using seasonal produce because fresh, in-season ingredients naturally taste their best this way, and philosophically you feel more connected to each meal.”

This connection is something I notice with the touches of wild garlic she infuses in the soups and salads, hand-picked from the woods surrounding the house. There’s even a dollop of freshly foraged wild garlic salsa verde on the smokey beans on toast for breakfast. Each dish is spring on a plate.  

Friends for life

Whenever you meet wild swimmers, you know you’re in the company of good people. People who will say yes to a sunrise swim or full moon dip, and laugh manically with you while cold water floods your nether regions. 

I’m happy to be in good company on this retreat. Some of them regulars who rebook every year, others who are completely new to the experience and say they’ll definitely be back. 

“Makala was so patient and encouraging as a swim guide,” one of the guests tells me. “I was so pleased to enjoy the swimming as much as I did.”

“This was my first ever yoga and swim retreat,” says another. “It exceeded all my wildest expectations. I loved it so much I’ve already rebooked for next year.”

As we depart on the final morning, many of us swap numbers and promise to keep in touch for future swims. Perhaps it will be in each other’s local swim spot, or perhaps at another Zest Life retreat. Wherever it is, we’ll feel bonded by our blissful time in the Lakes, where the sun perpetually shone for us. 

Zest Life is hosting a 4-day Yoga & Swimming retreat in the Lake District from 26 to 29 September and a 5-day retreat from 29 September to 3 October. They also have upcoming retreats in Anglesey and North Wales throughout the year. zestlife.co.uk

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Nia Lloyd Knott, author of two Wild Swimming Walks books, including the brand new book for West Wales, shares six of her favourite wild swimming walks in West Wales

West Wales has a long history of folk taking to the water for health and leisure purposes. From the bathers who flocked to the resorts of Aberystwyth and Tenby in Victorian times, and the competitive sea swimmers of the centuries-old Solva and Cwm-yr- Eglwys Regattas, to today’s flocks of Bluetits and Ironmen, the West Wales coastline has always been a draw to swimmers of all leanings.

Inland, the almost-forgotten hinterlands offer solitude and sublime scenic beauty. Wander the wooded valleys and dip in the waterfalls of rivers winding and tumbling their way down from the Elenydd, a vast upland expanse with wide open skies and lost lakes. In every corner of this region, you can discover a wealth of history, culture and community. You’ll find tales of poets and princes, saints and stones, learn about sailors and smugglers, and uncover a region known for its food and flannel.

Few places in Britain can rival the ‘wild west’ for its remarkable wildlife with seals, dolphins, puffins and peregrines all counted among the region’s revered residents.

Tenby’s wild side

It feels fitting to start off at what is arguably the capital of sea swimming in West Wales. Of course, in a region so known for its sea swimming opportunities that title is contested, but as a resort which was developed for Victorian sea bathers, and as home to the Long Course, Ironman and Tenfoot swimming events, few would argue.

This 9½ mile route explores the wonderful coastline, wooded valleys and country lanes surrounding the bustling town. A steep descent takes us to the idyllic sandy tidal beach of Monkstone Bay, often missed when walking the coast path between Saundersfoot and Tenby. With densely vegetated cliffs plunging down to an arc of soft golden sand, you’ll want to linger over this first swim spot. A leg busting stretch of coastal path follows, leading to a second swim at the secret cove of Waterwynch. In Tenby, there are no fewer than four beaches to choose from, and you can take a break here for ice cream, crab sandwiches or some of the famous fudge.

The second half of the walk takes you through tranquil wetland and woodland, a far cry from the crowds in town on a summer day. Wander along flower-lined lanes to complete the circle.

St Non’s and St Davids

St Davids is a place of religious and natural reverence, where people are either drawn to pray, or to play in the wild blue waters encompassing the peninsula. A five-mile circular walk begins and ends in Britain’s smallest city, and along the way you’ll discover the birthplace of not only Wales’ Patron Saint, but of coasteering, the scrambling-swimming hybrid coastal sport which was invented here.

A quiet lane leads down to the ruins of St Non’s Chapel, where legend has it, she gave birth to St David during a violent storm. Below, a vertiginous path leads down the wildflower-jewelled cliffs to a rocky bay. A committing swim, best suited to experienced swimmers, leads to a cliff arch which is fun to explore in calm conditions. Be sure to tow a float and wear a bright hat to stay visible to other water users.

The harbour and cliffs around Porthclais offer more exciting swimming and coasteering opportunities, but if you prefer a tranquil beach swim you’ll be in utter heaven in the crystal clear waters at Porthlysgi, before wandering back to the town past a rocky outcrop which was once the settlement of renowned Irish pirate Boia.

Mwnt and Aberporth

Set aside a whole day to enjoy this 11-mile route with its myriad swimming and wildlife watching opportunities. Begin in Aberporth, and enjoy the relaxed holiday atmosphere before following a quiet route through woodland and farmland with expansive views over the sweep of Cardigan Bay.

Aberporth has a positive swimming culture and the sea is swimmable at both high and low tide. It is lifeguarded at peak season so a good choice for those less confident or starting out on their wild swimming journey.

The second swim on this route is at Mwnt, a perfect horseshoe-shaped powder sand beach tucked between towering cliffs. As you return on the coast path, keep your eyes out for dolphins, this is one of the best places to spot them from land. If you have strong knees and are sure-footed you can tackle the steep descent to a secreted cove known as Traeth y Gwyrddon, with excellent jumps, dives and snorkelling. End the day back at Aberporth for a sunset swim.

Cwm Rheidol

Wander through woodland and climb high up onto the hillside for far-reaching views over Cwm Rheidol, surely one of the most beautiful valleys in the region. Swim in the river accompanied by birdsong and the echoes of the steam train.

Beginning at a much-loved cascade surrounded by wooded hillsides deep in the Rheidol’s valley, where a gravelly beach allows good access to a pool below the falls, warm up again by climbing high onto the northern hills, through the Coed Simdde Llwyd National Nature Reserve. In spring you’ll walk through a carpet of bluebells to a soundtrack of chiffchaff and warblers. A high route takes you through farmland with exceptional vistas of the surrounding countryside, before descending to an excellent place to swim on a bend in the river. Swim upstream and swoosh back down towards the bridge with the current on the outside of the bend, or bob about in the shallows on a gently sloping beach.

Return through verdant fields and woodland following the river’s course back upstream, with plenty of interest along the way. From the huge and unexpected hydroelectric power station – surprisingly tranquil given its scale – to the ruins of metal mine workings and the picnic area overlooking Rheidol Vale Falls, a favourite beauty spot with tourists past and present.

Teifi Pools and Claerddu

Explore the expanse of the Elenydd uplands at the Teifi Pools, lakes galore glittering at the source of the River Teifi, at the geographical centre of Wales. This 10-mile walk with endless swimming opportunities can be done in a day but you could opt to extend your trip with overnight stay in the remote Claerddu Bothy to make two very leisurely days of it.

Beginning in Ystrad Fflur, home to the ruins of Strata Florida Abbey, the route climbs up towards Llyn Teifi, the source of West Wales’ longest river, and where it begins its 76-mile journey to the sea. Officially no swimming is allowed in this dammed lake, but there are plenty of other lakes surrounding it where there are no ‘no swimming’ signs to be found. Arriving at Claerddu bothy, a bare bones shelter where respectful visitors can sleep for the night on a wooden platform inside the old farm cottage, a stream leads to a small, glittering waterfall where legend has it a giant known as Arthur once washed his hands. An outand- back leg leads you to the remote and wild Llynnau Fyrddon, twin lakes at the geographical centre of Wales. Bring your best navigation skills. Return through the peaceful and impossibly scenic Egnant valley.

Wild Swimming Walks West Wales by Nia Lloyd Knott is published by Wild Things Publishing.
Outdoor Swimmer Magazine readers receive 20% off and free P&P with code OS20 at wildthingspublishing.com

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Rowan Clarke heads to Bournemouth Highcliff Marriott Hotel for seafront luxury, hiking and dipping

Bournemouth is a busy university town on Dorset’s heritage coast. With leafy streets and oodles of English coastal resort charm, its seafront has a pier, amusement arcades, eateries and a large aquarium, The Oceanarium. But it’s Bournemouth’s seven miles of pristine sandy beaches, which have won awards for water quality and sustainability, that attract outdoor swimmers. Swimming here is some of the safest in the country, with ten lifeguarded beaches. From dipping to distance, the choices are seemingly endless.

The accommodation

Perched impressively on top of the cliff almost opposite Bournemouth Pier, the Bournemouth Highcliff Marriott Hotel has been hosting guests for 150 years. It was refurbished last year with fresh new oceaninspired décor that nods to its traditional coastal resort heritage.

The hotel has 167 rooms and suites, including rooms family rooms and accessible options. Pets aren’t allowed in the hotel, but if you’re travelling with your pooch, you can book a seaside cottage for a minimum of 2-nights, which includes a dog bed, blanket, and two bowls, plus a special treat for your pup. There is also a 24/7 gym and a heated outdoor pool complete with sun loungers and a bar, that’s open from May until September.

You know what you’re getting from the Marriott in terms of supreme comfort and a bit of luxury. But it’s those sea views from many of the spacious bedrooms that give this Marriott its edge. Waking up, drawing the blackout curtains and watching the sea from a big, comfortable bed is about as perfect as it gets. Plus, all the hotel staff are super friendly and helpful.

The swimming

Getting out of bed and heading downstairs for a pre-breakfast dip in the sea is an outdoor swimmer’s dream, and we did exactly this on both mornings. The Westcliff Lift is directly outside the hotel, so you don’t even have to walk down to the beach – although it was temporarily closed during our stay.

On the Saturday, we caught a passenger ferry to explore Studland, where there are another four miles of those immaculate golden sandy beaches, including a naturist beach. The sea here and in Bournemouth shelves gently, which does mean that you have to wade out. But, depending on conditions, you can swim parallel to the shore for as long as you like without going out of your depth.

Pack plenty of swimwear because you are spoilt for options, whatever time of year you visit. From cold water dips to marathon swims, there are various welcoming swimming groups, training camps, coaches and guides. If you’re visiting between May and September and fancy a longer, more ambitious swim, look up Durley Sea Swims, which start just a 15-minute walk from the hotel. Plus, there’s the iconic British Heart Foundation Bournemouth to Boscombe pier swim that takes place every July.

The food

After a long day hiking and swimming, you don’t have to leave the hotel – or even your room – to eat well.

The Marriott provides a delicious buffet breakfast from 7am to 11am each weekend morning. You can get lunch and snacks during the day and then eat in its fabulous Brasserie Blanc or Tiien Thai restaurants in the evening – eat in or order room service. We chose the gorgeous Brasserie Blanc for excellent French à la carte dining with good vegan and veggie options.

We also ventured out into Bournemouth town centre, which was buzzing on a Friday night. A 15-minute walk from our hotel, we found a brilliant 100% vegan restaurant called Vegivores. The creativity and delicious tastes of the vegan dishes here even got the meat-eater excited!

Best of the rest

Gifted with a beautiful, sunny weekend, we drove 15 minutes to Sandbanks on the western end of Bournemouth. Sandbanks is a beautiful peninsula that forms part of the world’s second-largest natural harbour, although it’s perhaps more famous for being the UK’s most expensive place to live.

After ogling ‘Millionaire’s Row’ and speculating on which house belongs to Rick Stein, we paid £1 each to cross to the National Trust’s Studland Bay on the chain ferry. Here, we hiked ten miles around wild heathland, beaches and dunes. We stopped in the bird hides around Little Sea to try to spot the elusive beavers that have been successfully reintroduced here, before walking across the dunes to Knoll beach for lunch and another swim.

Our fave thing

Post-swim-hike baths, naps and cups of tea in our gorgeous bedroom looking out at the sea glinting in the afternoon sun.

Book your stay

A stay at the Bournemouth Highcliff Marriott Hotel costs from £107 per night. For details visit: marriott.com

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